Growing up in Maryland, outside of Washington D.C., I always took for granted all that the Maryland and Virginia “eastern shore” – the area of these states on the “other” (eastern) side of the Chesapeake Bay – had to offer. It wasn’t until I was an adult, speaking to folks from all parts of the U.S. who all raved about what a lovely part of the country it was, that I really began to appreciate what a true gem the Eastern Shore is. “It’s so beautiful and peaceful” and “I would love to go back” were frequent comments that I heard from visitors, echoing those of Captain John Smith who, upon discovering this region 400 years ago, wrote that “heaven and earth never agreed better to frame a place for man’s habitation.” If you’ve never heard of the Eastern Shore, or have heard of it and wondered what it’s all about – and especially if you’re looking for a wonderful place to visit in the USA – today’s blog is for you.
Looking at a map of the east coast of the U.S., in the mid-Atlantic region, you’ll see a large body of water – the Chesapeake Bay – that separates the eastern parts of Maryland and Virginia from the rest of each state, which of course is where the name “Eastern Shore” comes from. And to this day, this separation serves to keep this region “different” from its mainland neighbors. Despite its proximity to Baltimore and Washington, D.C., the eastern side of the Chesapeake Bay (or just “the Bay” as locals call it) retains a sense of calm, easygoing way of life, that has been central to the area since it was first discovered. Yes, you can certainly find lots of busy and fun in the tourist beach of Ocean City (and it’s Delaware neighbors to the north), but by and large, the Eastern Shore offers a peaceful refuge from the world, and the perfect place to spend time if you want to relax, unwind, and social distance.
What will you find when you cross the Chesapeake Bay Bridge and arrive on the Eastern Shore? One of the first things you’ll realize when you see so many boats, is how much this region is rich with maritime heritage. Whether you’re interested in exploring the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum in the town of St. Michael’s, or want to charter a fishing boat to try your hand at catching dinner, or just want to kayak or canoe on the area’s many scenic waterways, it’s apparent how much the water is central to this area, both geographically, as well as historically, economically, and even socially.
Of course, with water comes seafood, and while there are an abundance of fabulous restaurants throughout the peninsula serving all kinds of fresh, local seafood, when it comes to the Eastern Shore, crab is king. Haven’t ever tasted Chesapeake Bay blue crabs? Get your mallets out then, grab a beer, and find a local to show you the “right way” to enjoy a true delicacy. While you’re at it, check out the Chesapeake Wine Trail to discover some fabulous wines as well as craft beers and spirits.
Beyond waterways and food, what else will you find when you explore the Eastern Shore? Your time here might consist of wandering among some of the historic sites and towns like Chestertown or Oxford, with architecture that reflects the colonial and pre-colonial history of the area. The region is dotted with multiple small towns as well, like St. Michael’s, that feature a variety of eclectic shops, waterfront restaurants, and charming inns and B and B’s. Visit Maryland’s only inhabited island accessible exclusively by boat, Smith Island (try their famous cake while you’re there!). Check out the Virginia town of Chincoteague, home of the annual Pony Penning Day, made famous by the children’s book, Misty of Chincoteague. Or visit historic Chesapeake City which is on the National and Maryland Historic Registries.
There’s a rich history that is part of Maryland’s Eastern Shore, and this area, as the birthplace of Frederick Douglass and Harriet Tubman, is deeply rooted in African-American history. Harriet Tubman escaped from slavery and returned to her Eastern Shore home to lead others to freedom, and visitors can retrace her historic journeys along the Harriet Tubman Underground Railroad Byway. You can also learn about Frederick Douglass in the places that shaped him on a driving tour that starts on the Eastern Shore.
You’ll also want to spend time exploring nature on the Eastern Shore and there’s lots of it beyond “just” the water. The Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge is home to three distinct ecosystems and a stunning array of wildlife. And every visitor to the Eastern Shore must take time to visit Assateague Island. Partly in Maryland, and partly in Virginia, this National Seashore offers sandy beaches, salt marshes, maritime forests and coastal bays – and most famously, ponies. The Assateague ponies roam wild on this island and visitors shouldn’t be surprised to find them strolling along the side of the road, right next to your car. Remembering that they are wild animals though, visitors are prohibited from feeding them – although take as many pictures as you like!
Of course, if you are looking for a true, bustling beach vacation, Ocean City, MD offers all you could want, with high-rise condos, a boardwalk, multiple restaurants and bars, and theme park-like attractions. You’ll have to drive through much of the Eastern Shore to get there however, and hopefully as you do, you’ll take time to explore all that this truly unique part of America offers. Better yet, come, explore, and save the beach for another time. You’ll be glad you did.
Just don’t forget to try the crabs.
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